Old cognacs. Cognac aging

2024 Author: Isabella Gilson | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 03:14

According to the technology, the production of cognac itself is recognized by specialists all over the world as one of the most complex and most ordered. Cognac aging in oak barrels is the most important stage of this process. Both the richness of taste and the delicate aroma of the resulting product depend on it. Old cognacs are very expensive liquor. Their cost can exceed seven to eight thousand dollars per bottle. In France, for example, old cognacs are drinks aged 6.5 years or more. And the most expensive century-old cognac "Henry the Fourth Dudognon" was sold in 2009 for two million dollars, about which it was officially entered in the book of records. To match the drink - the design of the container. The bottle was set with diamonds and other precious stones and made of an alloy of platinum and gold (total weight - four kilograms).

Cognac aging

The great revolutionary significance of the process itself was discovered in the eighteenth century, duringtimes of war between France and England. Then the British fleet blocked the ports of the French. It became impossible to export cognac and other drinks. For quite a long time cognacs were poured into oak barrels for preservation. After the expiration of the term, wine merchants noticed that the drink itself became much tastier, its taste and aroma became brighter. It was then that winemakers began to specifically age cognac spirits of double distillation in special barrels, and then create a blend by mixing them together.

Oak barrels

Old cognacs are aged exclusively in oak barrels. It is believed that high-quality drinks contain up to 500 different components. Not all trees can be used to make these barrels. The age of oaks suitable for these purposes is from 80 years and above. Traditionally (in France) they take oaks from the forests of Tronce and Limousin, medium- to coarse-grained, with a high level of tannin. And the winemakers keep the oldest cognacs in barrels made of bicentennial oaks. The container itself is made without nails, it is carefully fired from the inside. The burnt surface is able to release glucose, which gives the future drink a subtle sweetish aftertaste.

The process itself

Double distillation of wine produces fresh brandy alcohol with a strength of up to 70 degrees. It is colorless, sharp in taste, it has little aroma. But with prolonged aging in oak barrels, it acquires a golden color, softens, acquiring a taste and a specific aroma. Alcohol is poured into barrels not understring, leaving a certain void. This is necessary in order to create conditions for the oxidation of the drink. The containers are clogged with tongues, waxed from the outside and installed in several tiers.

First years of aging

There is a transition of tannins into alcohols from the barrel material. At the same time, alcohols acquire a vanilla flavor and an amber color. Over time, the drink will darken even more, acquire a softened taste with aromas of flowers and fruits, sometimes even with hints of spices.

Cellar Master

The chief specialist monitors the process and determines whether it is necessary to pour spirits into older barrels with characteristic “old” notes, whether to rearrange the barrels of cognac from the upper compartment of the cellar to the lower ones or vice versa (there is different humidity). This is how alcohols acquire structure and softness.

Weakening the fortress

Grape alcohol, placed in barrels, initially has a strength of up to 70 degrees. Then there is a natural process of its weakening. But it, as a rule, exceeds the prescribed 40-45. Then cognac is diluted with water (distilled). The resulting mixture is additionally aged in barrels for a month or more. After that, the cognac is ready and sent for blending. Then - bottled.

Gradation of cognac

The right to be called a fad alcohol acquires after spending at least two years in an oak barrel under the right storage conditions. The maximum age of this drink, in principle, is not limited, but masters of winemaking tend to say that it can be aged for more than 70 years in barrels incellar does not make sense.

International Scale (French):

• two year old - V. S.;
• three-year-old - Superior;
• four-year-old - V. S. O. P.;
• five-year-old - V. V. S. O. P.;
• six year old - X. O.

According to the European tradition, cognac over 6, 5 years old is no longer subject to classification and is considered a collection product.

Soviet scale

The years of aging of ordinary cognacs are indicated by asterisks, respectively: one year - one star and so on. For more expensive vintage cognacs, the following, already alphabetic, designations are accepted. CV - six years or more. KVVK - eight or more years of exposure. KS - more than ten. Cognac 20 years old - OS. What do these letters mean? Everything is simple here. "K" - cognac. "VVK" - excerpt of high quality. "KS" - old cognac. OS is very old. Cognac aged 25 years and above is considered collectible. So, seeing the letters on the bottle, you can find out about his age. By tradition, the so-called “golden aging” cognac is considered optimal in terms of timing - 4 years. In Stavropol, they even called cognac made from Spanish cognac spirits and having a subtle sweetish aftertaste of honey and flowers.

Cognac

By the way, it will be mentioned that only French and from a certain province - Cognac is recognized as international law to be called cognac. Thus, when exporting, for example, Russian cognac, this word should not be mentioned on the label. Another thing is for internal use, and then only forRussian. In Armenia, this issue was easier to solve: the French company "crushed" the production of the drink for itself, importing imported alcohol-blend. So the Armenian ones actually turned into French cognacs of the Perrier brand. This gives the right to be called internationally by this proud name - Cognac.

French Hennessy cognacs

One of the oldest and most famous cognac houses is "Hennesy". The volume of production is more than fifty million bottles per year. The first place in the world to sell skates. Did the Irish officer Richard Hennessy think of such success when he retired in 1745 and settled in the province of Cognac, where he began his own production of the drink? History is silent on this. It is only known that his branded cognacs were very liked by the courtiers of King Louis, and decades later the whole of Europe knew about the Hennessy brand.

Myths about centennial cognac

The whole problem is that cognac, according to experts, can live in an oak barrel for no more than 70 or 80 years. That is, the oldest drink, in theory, should only be of this aging. How to explain it?

Over time, cognac is subject to evaporation, lowering its degree. Masters of winemaking like to say that it is the angels who take their share of the drink of the gods. This process also has a critical point. And the fortress of cognac, by the way, is regulated in France by law - at least forty degrees (with rare exceptions for some houses, also stipulated in the laws). So, reaching the minimum strengthoccurs after a maximum of 80 years. After passing this point of no return, the drink can no longer be considered cognac according to the rules (that is, it is already less than forty degrees).

But what about the notorious centennial? The thing is that after aging in barrels, cognacs are poured into special glass containers of large volumes - bonbons, where they are stored, reaching such an advanced age. But this process has nothing to do with aging in barrels. In bonbons, the decrease in the degree of the drink is suspended, but also the process of its aging! Therefore, when talking about centennial cognac, they mean a drink of a younger age, but kept for the rest of the time in glassware, braided with straw.

Another option is to dilute with young cognac of a higher degree to get the coveted forty. With this method, they take a really old drink and fortify it with a young one. As a result, buyers get really old blends mixed with newer ones. But at the same time, the manufacturer is forbidden to indicate a hundred-year age on the label.

Experienced sommeliers advise you to take it if you really want to try a really old collection cognac, 50 years old. If more, it will be impossible to compare the taste qualities of collection drinks even to an experienced taster. At the same time, do not forget to use the noblest drink according to the rules of etiquette: large rounded glasses with a short stem, small doses, the right snack. All this, combined with a successful table setting, will only emphasize the mysterious essence andrefinement of old cognac. Accompanying the drink is chocolate and a cigar, as well as a leisurely conversation with good friends about something pleasant and sublime.